Anet3D PLA from China [Cheap and Weird]


So new to printing but after building a Prusa mk2/3 clone with more on the way (I such a happy dad atm), and after some great success I went and bought 10kg of Anet3D PLA filament from China.
Upon its arrival I noticed that the white and silver colours were not in the usual 190-230C and this was even marked on the box as 230-260C :o

And so the adventure begins.

After a few prints I found that I did in fact need to be running at at least 230C (without the part cooling fan as my RAMPS cant deal with PID at anything over 225C with a fan on) and once I hit the 50% cubic infill it started under extruding (I guess cos of the increased feed rate).
Currently using a jacked up version (230C) of the ‘Generic PLA’ profile in Prusa’s Slic3r.
I expect all I will need to do would be to change retraction to 0mm and push the temp up to about 240 but this is at the edge of my printers capabilities and I then put myself at risk of melting my extruder mount :expressionless:

Has anyone else here had experience with this sort of craziness? PLA that prints at the temperature of ABS???
I know that pigment can effect melting temperature but by that much? Kinda seems like that dumped me with a few reels from a dud batch, even so I’d like to make the most of it.

[More updates to follow]




After a few hours of tearing my hair out I think I’ve found why I’ve been having issues, the filament is not homogeneous.
Looking at extruded filament with a microscope (foldscopes are awesome!) it appears to that the filament is not melting consistently and causing mini-clogs. This combined with the vigorous retraction of the default prusa slic3r profiles means that after a while of ‘spot-work’ all of the lower melting point material in the filament (which appears not to have any pigment bound to it) has been boiled and coagulated with the harder-to-melt filament material backing up in the nozzle, (this also explains why the filament is so readily chewed by the extruder.

The only way that I have found to work around this is to not the limitations of the filament by making sure that;

  • Not printing <200um layers
  • Not printing parts with any runs <~50mm after a move
  • Not having any retraction at all (filament is hard enough that this results in minimal stringing)
  • Printing with heavy infill >70%

I have still yet to get a successful complete print but I expect a few things will appear to happen.

  • Single run vase models will come out fine at 200um
  • Geometric industrial shapes will come out well as long as they are not too detailed (requiring hand finish).
  • Natural shapes with lots of separate segments in will work with an increased number of perimeters to achieve minimum run length.
  • Support material will need to be extensive to be structurally sound.


Please do not burn your home! I will not tell bad things about filament or printer, but you should consider, that your combo just does not work. Upgrade hotend, try to make it work not by pushing over limits, if you like tinkering with printer parts. Just be safe!



Hi Jamie,

I’ve been bouncing back and forth about responding to your OP. I’d toss the stuff. 10kg is a lot of plastic, but if it is detracting from your enjoyment of the hobby, I don’t think it is worth it.

In response to photojohn, I’d also be sure my Marlin was up to date and that the thermal runaway settings were turned on. There are a couple of good YouTube videos on the subject, but I would be happy to explain it here if necessary.