Buildtak Flex Plate -discussion

#1

Hi all

Just want to do conversation topic to this Buildtak magnetic - spring steel heated bed solution. When you can change almost any 3d printer to have spring steel heated bed what you can remove after print and bend that.

Not find any topic to related this, if here is hope some moderator can change this different place.

Little bit links to product:
Manufacturer link: https://www.buildtak.eu/product/buildtak-flexplate-system/
Manufacturer video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UaIIuiiKReo

3D printing nerd - preview and installation to Mk2 prusa: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o2khw2tAuCM

All discussion and hints/tips are welcome here. And after all anyone here own that Flex Plate system?

@thomassanladerer Hi Tom, Are you test or hear this Buildtak Flex Plate system?

0 Likes

#2

@lassivv I’ve seen the Buildtak flex system before, but haven’t tested it. There are a few different products like this coming out these days and generally, I think it’s a pretty good system if the heat transfer isn’t impaired by for example gaps between the flex plate and heat source.

0 Likes

#3

From my research that I did on the various surfaces and sprays (including Toms video) I’ve found that your surface choice will often depend on the material that you want to use it with.
From what I found out – buildtak and other flexible magnetic surfaces (there’s the other one Angus uses) work very well with PLA. Some other filaments they might struggle with, and often cannot take higher temperatures.

So what are you planning to use it with?

0 Likes

#4

@Tom Good to hear, maybe if many manufactorers do this kind magnetic beds. There is maybe good preview/test idea on youtube channel.

Tyakos, Almost always printing PETG (85% all my prints) (Bed temp 70c). Other 15% is normal PLA. ABS and other i leaved because not have enclosure over printer.

0 Likes

#5

I’ve been using normal glass for PETG for quite a while, seems to work very well. Once I even tore a piece of glass with the print, because tried to remove it before it cooled down.

0 Likes

#6

I installed a FlexPlate system on my FLSun i3 clone a few weeks ago. It was easy to install.

Heat transfer through the bed is slower compared to without flexplate obviously, but it does heat up. It is usually about 5 deg C lower than the setpoint and on long prints it can reach setpoint.

Even with PLA you have to watch your first layer. If your heat bed is warped at all when you install the mag plate, that warping will transfer through. If you are using auto level, you probably won’t see a difference. I’m not using auto-level right now and I check and adjust bed level more frequently.

Another issue I encountered was using wood PLA, it stuck to the plate too well. I probably had the heat up too high on the bed. Enough residual did come off the plate that subsequent prints will sometimes have a shadow of the wood print.

All-in-all, I would recommend the system.

0 Likes

#7

I am looking for something like this but reading the product description i am already put off. I dislike that I have to apply the adhesive surface myself, that’s out of a question at that price tag. Also I would be very hesitant to apply an adhesive surface (the magnetic intermediate surface) to my heated bed. I doubt it will ever come off without residue on the heated bed and/or will require harsh chemicals to remove. I would prefer to get a power coated surface and a heated bed with embedded magnets or alternatively I would attempt to attach magnets to the bottom of the heated bed.

Still looking for a power coated or pre-adhered spring steel sheet…

Something like shown here, just in EU.

Jan

0 Likes