DRV8825 vs TMC2100 vs TMC2130 vs TMC2208


I’ve just ordered some TMC2100, TMC2130 and TMC2208 to replace my noisy DRV8825s.
But I’m wondering, what experiences you all had with the different types and which ones you liked the most.



After You test them all - give us sign/review. An have a good luck with upgrades! :slight_smile:



i will, but im curretly a bit busy IRL



A4988 are trusty and reliable.

DRV8825 either work fine or are a pain. They skip steps and whine with motors with low voltage and/or low inductance. The diode circuit solves this for some people, but not for others. There are a lot of poorly-made clone DRVs out there with the incorrect vref circuit, so you end up measuring motor voltage and not vref. Genuine from Watterott/Filastruder seem the best bet. If DRVs work for your motors then goodo. If your motors use less than 3V or are less than 4mH you’ll probably have a bad time.

TMC2100 seem good if you’re willing to run them at 1A and cool them properly (both heatsink and fan). There is no difference in torque for 3D printing purposes between spreadCycle and stealthChop modes, so despite all the advice otherwise, you don’t need to mess around with those tiny impossible solder jumpers. At higher speeds yes there is a difference, but we don’t move our motors that fast. TMC2130 and TMC2208 are TMC2100 with SPI/UART instead of solder jumpers. Buy ones with proper through-board cooling, some Chinese clones are built wrong and don’t cool correctly. Again genuine seems a good idea.

The best seems to be the TMC2660 on the Duet boards. High max current, microstep interpolation, cool running. if you don’t want to buy a Duet board, there are breakout boards for the drivers, but they are very expensive, it would be cheaper to just buy a Duet. For connecting to RAMPS/RADDS/etc you could probably use a Duex5 expansion board and pin in via the large header which is well documented.

HR4988 are a crap Allegro clone, they chop very roughly at 1/16 and cause all sorts of odd noisy resonance. Avoid.

References here.



I’d argue that the tmc2130s are a better fit than the 2660s for a printer, as they lack stealthchop, which makes them louder than needed.
Also the tmc2100s seem to have a tendency to whine when ruining in spreadcycle mode @12v



With the “wrong” motors, the TMC2130 whine just as much as the TMC2100. Even at 24 V. The whine i get from my TMC2130 sticks is just horrible. The TMC2130 can however be fully tuned over SPI. Almost every single parameter is available for configuration. I have not had the time yet, but it should be possible to remove the nasty whine by some small adjustments over SPI.



I have the HR4988 on a MKS SMINI board that i have laying around. Have not tried 1/16 microstepping on those, but on 1/128 microstepping they are very quiet and seem to perform very well.



Hello MaxRink,
Are you using Ramps board?



what do you guys think of the LV8729’S…so far im loving them!! just as quiet as the tmc series! not as many features but work just as well imo!..what do you think?



Yes, im running an ramps.



It’s generally not the best idea to connect two stepper motors on one driver. Generally, the serial motor connection is better than parallel, but the best way is to use 2 stepsticks for 2 motors at Z.
You can connect the Z2 stepstick to E2 on Ramps, and then just enable dual stepper motors in Marlin.

I had similar issues with TMC2100 on Z axis, and using two drivers solved it. Before, the axis was working fine in parallel on A4988.



I’m using MKS LV8729 1/128 Sbase and Marlin FW 2.0…
However the motors are vibrating and little noisy, so I’m waiting for TMC2208 from Watterott…



I have made a “dolly” with 2130s (Thomas wiring), X, Y, E0 worked perfectly; Z not at all. Has I had no clues, I reconfigured the board with A4988 to find that my 2 motors (17HS4401) needed to run on 1/8 and in series (Thanks to oakdesign). I’ll try that config with the 2130 has soon has I recieve a new mega. I fried my board , short circuit between 5V and PA0/D22 or PA0/D23. Beware! This is my first printer and I have no experience at all!



I’m with you mitchell.hirsch.

Just fitted LV8729s to my Prusa I3 MK1/2 and they are very quiet. Only the fans can be heard.

Compared to the others, these are easier to fit, no tiny soldering.



Is there a really good, step by step on tuning these? Got the Einsy board wit the 2130’s and was hoping for a bit quieter running. but so far not happening. They seem rougher running.tried a few things that was recommended on Facebook but not really sure what I’m doing… Keep getting piece meal info and really need something all in one spot, if that makes sense?




ya, kinda stupid question LOL. of course Tom has a whole video and write up on it!! doh :wink: