How good can the print-quality of a (high-end?!) DIY-printer be?

#1

Dear Tom’s community,
after a lot of fun with my little MP Select Mini, this little printer is becoming a boundary for creativity.
More space (20^3?!), higher precision (printing gears…), being able to use nylon-filament, high reliability and as as crown-jewel dual-extrusion would be very nice.

It seams to be possible to buy a printer with these capabilities, like a BCN3D Sigma R17 or - without the dual-extrusion - one of the latest fantastic Prusa-printers from Josef. Or another brand…

I also like the idea of building my own 3d printer. Something more individual than a complete kit, but not every single detail from scratch. Building such a printer takes a lot of time, will be a lot of fun and a lot to learn :wink:

To be honest, I would be disappointed to invest like 1500 bucks with a resulting print quality of a 800 bucks-preconfigured-printer.

Do you think it is possible to build a (high-end) printer which can compete with a finished product in the same or even higher price range? If so, it would be very nice if you can push me in the right direction, like “Hey, the hypercube evo is just what you need”.

Of cause skills are an important limiting factor. I never built a printer before.
What I think i can do: All kinds of woodworking, soldering (never etched a pcb), arduino-things, power-supply-things, programming, exact measurement, buy a linear rail/TMC2130/E3D-hotend, ask for help, solve puzzles, watch youtube-videos, not give up and keep the filament dry :slight_smile:

#2

Per $, you definitely can build better printers than you can buy. But independent hot ends is a bit more challenging. That is a relatively new concept and there hasn’t been a lot of work done w/ it in the reprap community. I’d probably look in to something like 2 in, 1 out hotend, like an E3D Cyclops or even a Y-splitter system like the Prusa MMU.

But otherwise you absolutely can build a better machine than most commercial consumer printers. Frame rigidity and the print gantries is what limits printing speeds. Because there isn’t a huge bed being moved back and forth, the X-axis is generally light, and the frame is aluminum, CoreXY builds are definitely the way to go if you are looking for fast, high quality prints. Take a look at a HyperCube by Tech2C. It is relatively good CoreXY printer w/ a huge community and very good documentation videos on the build. If you want something more challenging look at the HyperCube Evolution or the Voron (1/2), both of which are also CoreXYs.

#3

Thank you, lowfat. I think the HyperCube as very good inspiration and i should go for a single-extruder-system at first to keep it realistic.
The documentation from Tech2C seems very good and I like his youtube-videos.
Perhaps I will try a wooden (closed) enclosure if this idea is compatible enough…

#4

I started with an MP Mini Select too. I built Tom’s Dolly using the Mini and it’s been an amazing printer, a few issues aside.

#5

check the Hypercube Evolution

It’s a upgraded version of the Hypercube