Interesting properties, Impossible to print! POM

Hi everyone,

I’m fairly new to 3d printing, and I learned a ton watching Tom’s vid’s. Now since I only print functional parts I was looking for something heat resistant, and strong. First I tried ABS but it didn’t seem very strong. Maybe I did something wrong. Also I print on an Ender3 and 230°C for abs works, but maybe it’s just not hot enough for good layer adhesion?

Anyway, so I found POM and according to the properties, it can handle even more heat, is printable with temps just above 200°C and it should be very strong, almost (or not quite, but in the same ballpark) like PC.

So It melts indeed at 210° and the first layers seems to lay down flawlessly, but, the stuff doesn’t stick to anything. Alszo the advised bed temp is 110, witch the ender3 can do, but it leads to (sometimes, rather often) bed thermal runaway errors. I use a springsteel sheet with capton tape (and blue tape for abs prints) because I thought the stock bed witch seems to be some kind of glass fiber spreads the heat better but lets less heat through. This seems to be true when measuring the temps using ir (not a camera, but it works just as well) but once the bed is up to temp it makes actually almost no difference and you have less difference in the cold spots. I also posissioned the print on the hottest aerea.

Now I did find a way that it would stick; blue painterstape and gluestick with bed temp of 80° (NO HAIRSPRAY, it has opposite effect) Gluestick doesn’t work anymore above 80° (tested of course)
But as soon as I get to the second layer the stuff warps so badly that it peels the tape right off the bed.
Every single time, at the second layer, disasterous things happen, all involving warping forces.

I even reached out to the seller for tips on printing or if I did something obviously wrong, but I havn’t got a response yet.
So maybe you guys now more about POM? I’ve tried a whole bunch of temps, tried to make the difference between bed temp, ambient temp etc as little as possible, and i’m running out of ideas.
Everything I know and tried (I’ve learned from printing ABS and the video’s from Tom) seems to have little or no effect.

Can’t wait to hear from you guys,
Best regards

I also found something about printing it on wood, sanded with 60 grit paper, but that didn’t work (as it would blow me right away if it did)

So forget about gluestick etc, ABS juice is the way to go or so it seems. I also found a document about acetal, but other articles say that it is not the same as POM. Anyway, the document also explains a lot of the properties of acetal whitch should be similar, and the difference with for example ABS. The document covers injection molding techniques.

So the direction in which it prints makes a lot of difference and I’ve been experimenting with shell and infill options, but so far, the only successfull print with POM was a clinder with 0.6 nozzle (just because it was what was installed at that time) at 220/230°C (don’t remember, tried so much) and bed at 100°C (with ABS juice applied on capton tape) in vase mode. It seems like the 220°C is too much though, because it shows some bubbles.
The document I mentioned earlier also covers temperatures and they seem to be about 200°C if I recall correctly

Anyhow, I keep trying. Apparently nobody else is experimenting with this stuff, so I won’t be updating this post anymore