Prusa V2 upgrade Mendel90 or what else

I use my prusa V2 quite a bit when I find practical uses also have an A8 as well,
But here is my question Should I print the parts for a mendel 90 and upgrade my prusa2 this way, or are there other options that I might not even think of since I have been out of the game for a long time
parameters : willing to print a bunch of plastic parts
#2 willing to spend a little money with the mendel 90 all it would cost is plastic since I have wood, but if someone has another idea sub $100 I am willing to listen I want to reuse the 8mm rods the motors, electronics, heated bed etc.
#3 I might want to enclose it as well just for abs prints and warping.
So folks any ideas
thanks in advance for any ideas
terramir

Hello!
I have two Prusa i2 Mendel printers. I suggest keeping the printer as is if it works well.
It may be worth upgrading the the hot end and extruder using an E3D Lite6 and Titan.
I created a LACK (walmart Parsons table) enclosure for one of them and control it with a raspberry pi running octopi.

Yeah thing is the v2 or i2 has several problems for one the frame is wobbly I have a brace installed that helps things but that kills the z-height on one side also I have a plexiglass board on the back that also does the same overall. But the artifacts caused by the lack of stiffness is one of the biggest problem.
This is why I would like to upgrade to a design that is inherently stiffer and would improve print quality in various ways. As for the hotend I have a Budaschnozzle clone I intend on using till it dies I know if I choose the Mendel90 design I will have to make some adjustments to the whole thing and use an “aftermarket” x-carriage to make this work. But none of those things are huge obstacles. I was just wondering if there was a better system than the mendel90 that would be cheap but ultra stiff that would remove some of the resonance problems caused by both the v2(i2) and to a lesser extent the Mendel90 although the Mendel90 is louder.
Any tips would be appreciated
terramir

Well my i2 printers are more solid than my i3 printers so maybe your hardware loosened over time or the plastics had “creep” due to the pressure of the nuts. In the past, I overcame Z height limitation by converting to bowden, but I switched back to direct with wade extruders and e3d v6 clones since I prefer direct drive and kept busting couplers. The RepRap Samuel upgrade path looks interesting. Maybe upgrading your stepper drivers to TMC ones will help with the artifacts you mention? One tip I can think of (applicable to any threaded rod and plastic design) to improve stiffness would be to use fender washers instead of normal ones adjacent to the vertices.

did the same to my 180X180X100 still going when every other printers I have brake down I don’t know what to call it now I just added a Bulldog extruder instead of the lashed together parts bowden driver too.
] It had a Wade and no fan originally then I found out how critical a cooling fan was… crystal structure of the Resin and all…I bought the pieces of Plastic threaded M8 rods and Hardware off of Eba y made the Wood jig and started assembling no that printer is sitting in a box in pieces and the one I printed from it and bought hardware for is running fine…
Every once in a blue mood you have to check it. One of the first things you print of it are Anti vibration feet they solve so many Issues with the V1-i2 and mine ii3 still running it on a RAMPS 1.4

Normaly such type of sensors is powerd with +12V but it depends on the type of sensor.