Hey Peeps…looking for some help here. I’ve been struggling with parts warping and causing the parts to not meet up properly so I have to do a lot of sanding to get the parts to glue together without a gap. Early on I switched to using a glass plate on the bed and that helped but did not get rid of the issue. But I worked around it for awhile. Finally I got tired of it. I started to think the part was warping on the glass plate and pull the plate away from the bed. That was the only thing I could think of because when I took the glass plate off with the part still attached I could see it was still firmly attached all around the part. So I ordered a new Ultrabase bed in hopes of solving the issue. I printed a print of 4 parts and they stuck to the bed nicely. At the end of the print they were still stuck nicely to the bed so I knew everything was flat. I pulled the parts off and put them aside for assembly later. Today, 2 days later, I decide to work on the plane some more and grab the tray with the new parts on it only to find…the parts have warped! And not a little bit either! When I put 2 of the parts together I have nearly a 3mm gap! Much bigger than I used to get. So for some reason it seems the warping I am getting is occurring after the part has been printed and removed from the printer. What could possibly cause this? It makes no sense at all to me.
Update: So I printed a few more parts last night with a bit more observation. First print normal with a 60* bed…parts stayed stuck to the bed nicely with no warping at all…until they were removed from the bed and they were instantly warped. Tried a lower print bed temp and the parts did not stick.
If you are removing the part while the bed is still warm, you can get warping from the rapid cooling. If you haven’t tried already, let the bed completely cool to room temperature before removing the part.
Thanks I’ll look at that. Most of the parts I print I have the heat bed turned off after the first 4mm. I’m printing thin wall RC airplanes and with the heat still on I get sag in the skin of the wings. So I leave the heat turned on only during the first process then turn it off after that.
Ok a bit of an update…since layer adhesion doesn’t have to be insanely high on these parts like it needs to be on the rest of the airplane…I decided to try turning the cooling fan on during the print. This reduced the warping by about 60% or more. The next print I tried I let it print over night so it had at least 5 hours to cool. Just like before the print was solidly stuck to the bed with no warping…until I removed it from the bed…then it warped.
Heh, saw you posting on 3DLabPrint asking similar questions (I was snooping over there to see if anyone had solutions to similar problems). Do you have to pull the parts from the bed or do they come off easily? I imagine that thin layers could stretch easily. Also, what type and brand of material are you using?
Yeah it is one of the planes from the 3dlabprint gang I’m having this issue with. The parts come off fairly easily since I am using an Ultrabase bed. I’m using eSun PLA+. I’m thinking the issue may be with the infill…the factory files provided for these wing supports have 3 different infills so I’m thinking the difference in infill may be causing a difference in shrinking which could cause the warp. I’m currently trying it printed with all the same infill.
Ok finally got it to print right. The factory files that came with the model has 3 different infills on this part. I think this was creating the loaded spring effect and allowing it to warp after removal from the printer. I changed the infill to the same at all 3 levels and the part warped away from the bed. Since this particular part is not thin wall like the rest of the model I changed the heat bed to stay on the whole time instead of turning off after 4mm and then the parts stayed stuck and are now perfectly flat after removing them from the printer!
Glad to hear it and useful info for others printing those amazing planes.